| Internet Auctions
| Grading Guide
Spotting A Counterfeit
| Market & Updates
Reader Questions & Want Lists
Closer Look At Internet Auctions:
Internet auctions are fast
becoming an international pastime as well as a major business venture worldwide.
Much like a game of chess, there are casual players and there are masters. There
are many serious and reputable dealers out there, but they are side by side
with fly by night, part-timers with no overhead who are looking to make a fast
buck on unsuspecting buyers any way they can. It's important to try to determine
who you're buying from, and if you can seek restitution through any type of
a guarantee in place if there is a problem down the road.
We've all seen those auctions
where not only are the descriptions vague, but the whole auction looks like
a 5 year old wrote it and misspelled half the words. Of course, there's no photo
of the item or if there is, it's so dark that you can't even see the item clearly.
And then there's the feedback showing that at least half the buyers had some
problem or another with this seller (notice we didn't say that this individual
is a Dealer).
Sure, an auction like the
one just mentioned could be for some sort of "diamond in the rough",
figuring that the seller isn't on the ball enough to know what they've got,
but that's also like hoping that you'll win the $125 Million Dollar Power Ball
Jackpot. What are the odds, really?? Yet all of us at one time or another are
willing to take a chance on getting something for nothing, or at least cheaper.
Always remember though, "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably
Something that every buyer should
do is to take a moment and enter the sellers "guidelines" area of
any major auction site. Doing so will be quite an education in terms of how
sellers are instructed to list items and for how much. This will answer many
questions that are often asked by buyers about starting bids and reserves, etc.
The prospect of a "No
Reserve" auction with a very low starting bid sounds enticing, but "Buyers
Beware!". From the guy selling out of the trunk of his car using a borrowed
lap top, to some of the biggest dealers around with over 1000 auctions running,
there are many unscrupulous sellers out there using shills.
These are "friends" or "alias" user I.D.'s who place bids
just to get an item pumped up in price to a predetermined minimum selling range.
Often times though, the shill won't even place a bid until within the last 5
minutes or so, which in that case is really merely a ploy to bail the seller
out from having to sell the item at any type of loss. Of course, none of these
tactics are legitimate, and the sellers can be banned from selling at a particular
site if these accusations can be proven, but that's another story. Again, always
remember that "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!"
Then there are the "Snipers",
the bidders who jump around in the last few minutes of an auction and throw
minimum bids on every auction they see with several bids already on them, hoping
to steal a deal. After the auction closes and the smoke clears, the sniper determines
whether or not the item is a good deal, in his opinion. If not, he simply defaults
on payment, stops using that User I.D., and resurfaces with a new identity tomorrow.
Not only does the legitimate buyer loose out in this case, but the seller as
well, with all of his time spent sending out numerous notification emails, posting
negative feedback and then having to take another 5 or 10 minutes to "remove"
the buyer and finally re-list the item.
Speaking of time expended
(and time is money to the legitimate dealers out there), the typical auction
set up time, with preparing the actual listing, scanning or photographing the
item, uploading the scans and finally proofing and making the submission can
run anywhere between 10 and 15 minutes, depending on the time of day (due to
Internet traffic). The administrative and shipping part of the ultimate sale
can take another 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the bookkeeping and shipping
systems used. Then there's the jaunt to the Post Office (because mailmen normally
don't handle Insured Mail paperwork and package weights). Of course, UPS and
FedEx pick up right at a sellers door, but some buyers find $15 to $20 in shipping
costs per item a little tough to swallow. Remember, like in any well run business,
things just don't get done on their own, good employees make it all happen,
like to get paid too. So don't begrudge
a seller for charging enough to get your item out the door and on it's way to
Always remember that you're
literally reaching into your pocket every time you place a bid. Don't over-extend
yourself with a multitude of bids at one time. You
could win all of the auctions you bid on, and then what?
Ask yourself if spending the amount of money you've bid would cause you or your
family financial hardship. If the answer is "Yes", then someone is
going to suffer, and that's not good for any of us. Sellers don't want
to wait for you to amass the funds for payment, and the kids need food on the
table every day. Always bid in moderation.
additional points to remember are:
- Always check the seller's
feedback history before
placing a bid.
- Use the automated bidding
feature of the auction so as not to overpay for an item.
- Check to see if the seller
has a guarantee policy (most reputable ones do!), but be realistic about this
and don't abuse it "by trying everything on and not buying it!"
If you receive your item and it's not
what you bid on, that's the time to take advantage of the guarantee.
- Place a realistic initial
bid. Don't worry, the automated bidding will only add a $1.00 (or the minimum
bid), if that's all it takes to win the bid. If your realistic first bid doesn't
reach the reserve of the item, you'll be told immediately and move on if you
choose not to spend any more. If you really
like an item and have already placed several bids,
don't be afraid to send the seller an email inquiring about the reserve. If
they see your bids in place, most sellers will reply directly to your email
address if you provide it as a part of your question to give you an idea of
their reserve. You see, if a question is asked and then answered at the auction
site, it's posted for anyone who browses the auction to see. As long as the
seller answers you via your email address that you leave by direct response
to you, no one can see your email except the seller.
- Try your best to be an
informed consumer. Research as much as you can about the item you are bidding
on. Also remember that guide books and price sheets you refer to show broad
ranged statistics with black and white interpretation. Nothing in this world
is either black or white. Supply and demand often impacts prices, so if you
really like an item and don't see a lot of them listed very often, don't be
afraid to spend a little more than what the "book says". It's likely
then too that the item could be worth a lot more than the book says.
- Confirm your winning
notification from the seller, and mention your address at that point so that
time frames can be anticipated. Alaska to Florida will take much longer than
North Carolina to South Carolina for the payment to reach the seller.
- Send your payment when
you say you will. A seller would much rather be told you need a few days to
send the payment off, than to expect immediate payment and not get it. Good
communication is the key to a smooth transaction.
- Make sure you know what
forms of payment the seller accepts, don't assume
(You know what "ass u me" does).
You need actual cash to purchase most Money Orders. Remember that many banks
today offer free
Cashiers or Bank Counter Checks if you have a Plus or Gold Account with them.
Personal checks can take up to 10 business days to clear completely. Using
PayPal or a similar Credit Card acceptance program can often get your item
shipped the same day.
- Send a copy of your winning
email notification to identify your payment quickly to the seller. Some sellers
receive over 50 checks a day and poor identification of your payment can delay
- Always provide your typed
or printed address the way it reads on an address label. Some sellers cut
or scan your address and use what you provide as your actual shipping label
to avoid transpositions and mistakes.
- Most reputable sellers
will insist on shipping your item "Insured". Again, at quick look,
this may seem somewhat unnecessary to the buyer, but there are several good
reasons benefiting both parties to Insure the shipment. First, the seller
has a specific record of exactly when and where the package was sent, if it
ever becomes an issue. The buyer is protected in that if the item never reaches
it's destination, there is a guarantee to get the buyers money back when a
claim is filed. And finally, the buyer is protected from anyone else walking
off with the item after delivery because the package must be signed for, simultaneously
providing a record of delivery available for the sellers mutual benefit as
- Be prepared for your
item to arrive in the condition it was in just as you saw it when you placed
your bid. If something seems different, go back to the auction page and look
at it again. If you feel that there is a problem for any reason, politely
email the seller and state your concerns. Here again, if you're dealing with
a seller who has a guarantee policy, there's normally no problem in reaching
an amicable solution. The one case specific issue here for Currency purchases
is grading. Grading is discretionary,
and certainly in the eyes of the beholder. You would be surprised how many
differ slightly in their opinion of borderline grades. One way to insure some
confidence about the seller you're dealing with is to go to the feedback
again to see what other past customers have to say about the accuracy of the
sellers grading practices. On the other hand, we all make mistakes, all of
us! If you evaluate the situation you're facing and feel that there is an
"issue", get it off your chest and tell the seller. Don't just huff
off and post negative feedback, because, as "right as rain", there
will end up being a "feedback war", and neither party benefits.
- Speaking of feedback,
most legitimate sellers will take the time to post positive feedback about
the transaction for you, and they really appreciate it if you do the same
in return. An old expression comes to mind here though, "If you don't
have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all". In other words,
let's say that everything went well in your transaction except for one little
thing. If that one thing really bothers you though, don't leave any feedback,
and believe me, the seller will get the message when he has asked for feedback
and gets none.
- Finally, if all went
well and you may sometime wish to purchase items from this seller again, either
"Bookmark", add to "Favorites" the seller's Auction
page, or as in some auction systems, you can set "Alerts" so that
when this seller lists new items, you'll be one of the first to know about
Now, with as much of the
above in mind as you choose to take along with you, go out and have some FUN!!
finding that special something you're looking for and bid away. After all, isn't
fun what auctions are all about??
Personal & Identity Security
In this high-tech, security
conscious age we live in, it is surprising that some people are often unintentionally
careless when it comes to maintaining confidentiality of highly sensitive personal
information, which in turn can make them vulnerable, or at least, very possibly
For example, many individuals
who collect currency, often wisely utilize a P.O. Box as a mailing address for
security purposes, but then think nothing of sending a personal check for payment,
which in turn has their home address printed on it, and very often also lists
their home phone number and sometimes even their driver's license number or
Social Security Number. Understandably, customs and practices from State to
State are often different, requiring this information be on personal checks
for convenience. But surely, some caution should be exercised in keeping this
highly personal information as private as possible. Consideration should be
given to using a separate checking account with minimal information for out-of-state
and internet transactions.
At a time when many are
attempting to be as statistically invasive and analytical as is possible about
everyone, concern should be afforded in maintaining as much confidentiality
as possible about providing personal information, and relating to any details
of physical property accumulated for collecting purposes. Start by not divulging
even your email address to anyone whose integrity you can't somehow check out
or be comfortable with. In addition, completing a "survey" to qualify
for something "free" may even end up costing you much more than your
identity. "Information Pirates" and "Identity Thieves" as
they are called, can learn a great deal about you by just one little shred of
information innocently divulged. This information can then be sold over and
over again to just about anyone.
As a Currency Collector,
it is imperative that you consider your own security at all times. That is,
first know something about the seller you are purchasing from. When in doubt,
even before bidding at an auction, check the seller out via feedback, etc. and
then ask questions if necessary to satisfy any curiosity. While using a credit
card, be SURE that the link is secure through the entire payment process. If
you accept delivery of and store your purchases at home, consider going out
to purchase a vault for safe storage, or installing a security system to protect
all of your valuables. Again, credit cards and money orders don't require relinquishing
personal information outside a secure environment, so use this form of payment
whenever possible to preclude any compromise of your confidential statistics.
Always insist on purchases
being sent to you via Insured mail or transport. Also, if you don't already
have an endorsement on your Homeowner's and/or Renter's insurance policy for
stated value collectibles, check out the cost of that additional coverage as
a wise investment. There are also some specific insurance carriers advertising
in trade publications who write separate special policies on paper money collections.
No matter what though, spend a few moments every month or so to maintain and
update a current inventory of your collection, and keep it hidden elsewhere
in your home or office, away from your actual collection, in the event of any
By following these little
steps, you ll have a much better chance of enjoying your collection for many
years to come.
A Guide On Currency
Superb Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Superb
Gem CU): A flawless note, visually perfect in every way.
No folds, bends, rounded corners, or counting crinkles are permissible at this
grade level, and the centering must be superior for the issue. The paper will
be crisp and original, the embossing (where applicable) must be bold, and all
four corners must also be perfectly sharp. The overall aesthetic quality at
this grade level should be outstanding for the issue. Notes in this grade are
rare, even in the most common series.
Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Gem CU):
A crisp, perfectly centered example that has perhaps one tiny
flaw that limits the grade-perhaps a microscopically frayed corner, or an almost
imperceptible crinkle in the paper. The note must be absolutely original, with
bold embossing and bright colors. Any flaw that is readily evident, such as
a noticeable counting crinkle or slightly imperfect centering, will prevent
a note from receiving a Gem CU grade. Notes in this and any Uncirculated grade
will, of course, have absolutely no folds or bends.
Choice-Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Choice-Gem
CU): This is an intermediate grade that is reserved for notes
that are nicer than a typical Choice CU note, but have one or more minor flaws
that just barely prevent a Gem CU rating. Such a note might have perfect centering
and otherwise flawless paper quality, but a minor counting crinkle would prevent
a Gem grade. An otherwise flawless note with slightly imperfect centering might
also fall into this category. Notes in this and any Uncirculated grade will,
of course, have absolutely no folds or bends.
Choice Crisp Uncirculated (or Choice
CU): A note in this grade will be a strictly Uncirculated
note, with no folds or bends present even under close scrutiny. The paper quality
and eye appeal will be above average for the issue, and any flaws present will
be minor in nature. Imperfect centering is acceptable at this grade level, although
any note with severe centering problems cannot attain this grade. A counting
crinkle or two is acceptable, as well as a microscopically frayed corner or
two. Any combination of these or other problems would drop a note into a lower
category. A Choice CU note should be a pleasing, original example with no major
distractions that are readily apparent.
Crisp Uncirculated (or CU):
A note in this grade must be strictly Uncirculated-with no folds, bends, or
wrinkles present, even when viewed very closely under a strong light. A bent
corner tip may be acceptable at this grade level if there are no other flaws,
but only if the bend is within the margin and it does not affect the design.
If the bend is large or there is more than one, the note cannot grade CU. Such
a note may have centering problems, counting crinkles, or microscopically rounded
corners, but the note must be strictly free of folds or bends. A note that is
otherwise Choice or Gem CU but has been processed or pressed might fall into
Choice Almost Uncirculated (or Choice
AU): A note in this grade will be a "just miss"
for a Choice CU grade or higher. It will have above average eye appeal and will
be attractive for the issue, but a bent corner or light vertical centerfold
will keep it from an Uncirculated grade. Two light vertical bends are acceptable
for this grade, as long as the surface of the paper is not "broken."
More than one light fold or a heavy fold or crease will drop the note into a
lower grade classification.
Almost Uncirculated (or AU): An
AU note will have one or more light folds that are not heavy in nature or obtrusive
to the overall appearance. Three light vertical bends would be acceptable for
this grade if they do not "break" the surface of the paper, but no
more than two light folds may be present. One heavy fold or crease may be present
at this grade, but two heavy folds or creases will drop the note to a lower
Extremely Fine (or XF):
A note in this grade will be bright, fresh, crisp, and attractive, but a few
light folds or bends may be present. The overall eye appeal will be above average,
and only the slightest soiling may be visible. A note in this grade might have
a few light folds or several very minor bends, or a couple of vertical creases
may be present. A note with a horizontal fold and three vertical folds cannot
technically grade XF, although a very light horizontal bend that does not "break"
the surface of the paper might be acceptable at this grade level if the three
vertical folds are not heavy and there are no other apparent flaws. A typical
XF note may have a couple of pinholes, but any larger holes would prevent a
note from reaching this grade level.
Very Fine (or VF): A
VF note should have nearly full remaining crispness, although several folds,
wrinkles, or other signs of circulation may be present. Mild soiling might be
apparent, but it should not be serious. No tears, stains, or other impairments
should be readily apparent, and the note should still have nice eye appeal.
Several minor pinholes may be visible when the note is held to a light. The
corners may be slightly frayed or slightly rounded at this grade level, but
the paper should retain nearly full crispness and there should be no loss of
color in the design.
Fine (or F): A note
in this grade will resemble most notes that have spent considerable time in
circulation. The piece will have lost some of its crispness, but the paper will
still be solid. (A limp note without any crispness will classify at a lower
level.) The corners may be slightly frayed or rounded, and the edges may also
be frayed. Pinholes may be readily apparent, but none should be large or obtrusive.
A few minor edge splits are not uncommon in this grade, but they typically will
be within the margin and not affect the design. No major stains or tears may
be present, although a stray pencil marking or light teller stamp will not affect
the grade at this level if it is not dark or obtrusive.
Very Good (or VG): At
this grade classification, a note will be heavily worn with slightly rounded
corners, frayed edges, or slightly rough margins. The paper will be intact,
however, and no large pieces may be missing. A few edge splits may be apparent,
although they must not be severe. The note will be limp or soiled from circulation,
and some wallet staining may be visible. No major damage is acceptable at this
grade level, however, and any note that has a large hole, stain, tear, or missing
piece must fall into a lower grade category.
Good (or G): A note
in this grade will be heavily worn, soiled, torn, taped, holed, or missing small
pieces from the design. It will still be roughly intact, and readily distinguishable
by series and design type. Damage or wear may be rather severe, but any note
that is missing large portions of the design or is barely attributable may fall
into an even lower grade classification, such as Fair or Poor.
A brief comment about
Intermediate grades such as XF-AU, VF-XF, Fine-VF, VG-Fine, or
Good-VG are often used to indicate a note that is nicer than the lower grade
level, but just misses the higher classification. For example, a note with three
vertical folds and a horizontal fold cannot technically grade XF, but it might
be much nicer than a typical VF-an intermediate grade of VF-XF is then used
in this instance. A plus sign (+) may also be occasionally affixed to a grade,
indicating that the note is a nice, problem-free note for the assigned grade
with claims to a higher classification.
Processed, washed, and pressed notes:
It is an unfortunate aspect of our hobby that unscrupulous people
will attempt to pass some things off as something they are not. Methods to "improve"
the look or grade of a note abound, and it is common to see notes where any
number of these methods have been attempted. The most common is to wash the
note (usually with soap, detergent, or bleach) and flatten it (often with an
iron), and starch is even sometimes added to stiffen the note and add crispness.
While a beginning collector may be easily fooled by such a note (and even experts
occasionally miss one), enough practice will enable any collector to readily
spot a "doctored" note. A few people in the hobby still maintain that
a processed note is an "improved" note, but the portion of the hobby
that views originality favorably has gradually overwhelmed this view, and processed
notes are usually traded at a discount and graded at a level or two lower than
their apparent grade. A processed note can usually be detected by fading or
loss of color, especially where the note was once folded. Folds can often be
difficult to detect, but the evidence of a fold can never be completely removed.
Sometimes even the smell of a note is a dead giveaway-and sometimes it may be
the only way to determine if a particularly good job was done in processing
a note. On an Uncirculated note, a lack of original embossing is a telltale
sign of a pressed note. Patience and attention to detail can often prevent hundreds
or even thousands of dollars worth of mistakes.
Damaged and repaired notes:
Some common sense is necessary when grading damaged or repaired
notes. A collector should research the different methods of repairing a note,
and be able to recognize these methods. Sometimes it is actually possible to
"improve" the appearance of a note by repairing or restoring the paper
(particularly when a tear is closed or a missing piece is restored), but the
note still must be classified as damaged and repaired, and special care should
be taken to make sure any note does not have a subtle or imperceptible repair.
Some repairs are deceptive, and whether this deception is done intentionally
or not a collector can get "burned" on such a note. The assigning
of a grade to a damaged or repaired note is a matter of opinion in some sense,
but common sense should dictate the final evaluation. A general rule to follow
is to consider at what level one would be indifferent to a damaged note as opposed
to a problem-free note in a lower grade. For example, if a collector would be
equally content with a stained CU note or a problem-free VF, then a fair classification
of the stained CU note might be at the VF grade level. It is best to give an
overall grade to a note, and then describe the paper quality of the note and
the flaws that are present. For example, a note may be graded VG, but in the
description of the note it might state that it has the paper quality of a VF
but a corner tip has been torn off.
Some general comments about grading and
Grading is, of course, an art, and not a science. While counting
folds is relatively easy, determining eye appeal and what a note in a certain
grade should "look" like takes time, experience, patience, practice,
and a certain level of common sense. If a note looks really nice and might pass
for AU but is technically only an XF or XF-AU, it will often bring a price commensurate
with an AU grade regardless of the technical grade. Eye appeal is often more
important than a technical grade in determining a note's value. This only makes
sense-most people would rather own an attractive, problem-free, well centered
AU note with a vertical fold down the center rather than a generally unattractive
note that technically merits a CU grade. Approach grading with common sense
and knowledge about what merits a given grade, and have fun-which is, after
all, the most important aspect of collecting.
Can You Spot a Fake?
In 1990 United States currency
was enhanced with two new features. Although the appearance of the bills was
the same, there was a security thread embedded that runs vertically through
the note and through the micro printing around the border of the portrait.
Recently the look of U.S.
currency changed again. With all the high tech copying tools available to the
public, counterfeiting was becoming easier and easier. To counter act that the
Treasury Department has come up with some high tech additions to its new bills!
The bills were given enlarged portraits to make them easier to identify. There
is also added detail that makes it harder to duplicate. You may have noticed
that the portraits are off-center. This is intentional and provides room for
a watermark over to the side that reduces wear and tear on the portrait. The
watermark is based on what the portrait is on the bill (i.e. a $5 bill will
have a portrait of Lincoln, and also a watermark of Lincoln close to the border.)
The watermark is visible from both sides when you hold up the bill. There is
a security thread embedded vertically in different locations that indicate the
note's denomination. There are fine lines that are printed behind each portrait
and they are very difficult to replicate. These new bills also have micro printing
that is very small and hard to replicate because of its size. The micro printing
is found in different areas on different denominations of bills. For instance,
on the $5.00 bill the micro printing consists of the words "FIVE DOLLARS"
in the side borders on the front of the note, while, "The United States
of America" appears along the lower edge ornamentation of the portraits
oval frame. On the $10 dollar bill the micro printing can be found on the front
of the note - the word "TEN" being repeated in the numeral found in
the lower left-hand corner. Also, the words "The Untied States of America"
are repeated just above Hamilton's name along the lower edge of the portrait's
frame. On most denominations there is what the treasury calls, "color-shifting
ink." This ink is used on the green number in the lower right corner. On
the front of the bill it appears black, when it is viewed at an angle. This
is not a feature found on the $5 bill. On the back of the new bills there is
a large denomination numeral that makes it easier to read. The bills all contain
a universal seal that represents the entire Federal Reserve System. The letter
and number beneath the left serial number identify the issuing Federal Reserve
Bank. There are eleven numbers and letters that appear twice on the front of
The redesigned $100 bill
was the first note of the new series to enter into circulation. This bill has
an updated portrait of Benjamin Franklin with an image of Independence Hall
of the back. These bills went into circulation in 1996. The new $100 bills were
followed in 1997 by the new $50 bills. They have an enlarged picture of Ulysses
S. Grant on front and an image of the U.S. Capitol building on the back. 1998
saw the release of the redesigned $20 bill. Andrew Jackson's portrait is on
the front and the north side of the White House replaces the view of the south
lawn on the back of the note. In the middle of the year 2000 came the $10 bill
with its portrait of Alexander Hamilton on the front and the Treasury Department
on the back. Also, in mid 2000 came the new $5 note. Abraham Lincoln's picture
is on the front and an updated illustration of the Lincoln Memorial is on the
In the year 2000 we also
saw another major addition - the new dollar coin. This coin features a picture
of Sacagawea, the Shoshone Indian woman who, with her infant son, guided Lewis
and Clark to the west. There is an American eagle on the reverse side. This
coin is gold in color and has a smooth edge. It does not replace the Susan B.
Anthony dollar or the paper $1 bill. Those will still be in circulation.
A recap of some of the new
features will be a key in spotting counterfeits. If you are suspicious, you
want to check for the following items:
The color-shifting ink:
With the exception of the new $5 bills you can tilt the bill back and forth
to see the color on the number on the lower right corner. It should change from
a distinct green to black, and back again.
The watermark: If you hold
the bill up to a light source to see the watermark, look at the blank space
to the right of the portrait. The watermark is actually in the paper and not
printed on it, so it can also be seen from the reverse side. The security thread
- look for the thin strip that runs from top to bottom. Surprisingly it is a
strip of plastic that is actually imbedded, not printed on the paper. You can
only see this when you hold the bill up to a light source. The security thread
will glow a specific color, depending on the denomination, when held under an
The fine line printing patterns:
When checking the fine lines behind the portrait on the front of the bill and
behind the picture of the building on the back, take note that the lines are
clear - not uneven or composed of dots. This needs to be done under a magnifier
so you can see the finely printed words.
Some tips issued by the
U.S. Treasury on what to do if you do suspect a counterfeit note:
Do not put yourself in danger
Do not return the note to
the person who passed it to you.
Try to delay the passer
by some excuse, if possible, without risking harm.
Try to observe and record
the passer's appearance and that of any companions.
Note the license plate number
and the make of the passer's car.
Call the police or the Secret
Write your initials and
the date on an unprinted portion of the suspect bill.
Do not handle the note more
Put the note in a protective
Give the bill only to a
properly identified police officer or a representative of the U.S.Secret Service.
This is a forum where you can read important
currency-related news, get in touch with other collectors to exchange information
and stories in the currency community, voice your opinions, and most importantly,
post want lists for certain rarities that you're looking for. Please contact
us by email (Subject: WANT LIST) and we'll do our best to get everything posted
promptly. Feel free to also make suggestions on how we can better serve your
needs and improve this venue.
Collectible currency is certainly a secure way to safeguard your
investments for the future. The "currency market" continues to remain
stable through all the other economic recessions today.
· Presently, all small size including
Nationals are leading the market in popularity. Fractional Currency is following
closely, relating to the trend of interest in our rich and intriguing U.S. heritage.
· We are pleased to advise that we
have in stock a very large lot of the Uncirculated grade of Federal Reserve
small size Notes. Many of them are sequential lots and are presently being inventoried
for listing in the coming months. Some lots will be sold at a fixed price, while
others will be listed for auction through our auction venues. Access to all
lots will be possible from this site initially, so check back often. Anyone
with specific Want Lists presented to us now will have first choice at any of
the lots, so feel free to email us.
Why don't we see more 1928 $1 U.S. Red Seal notes available for collectors in
my area? P. Sizemore, Aurora, IL
$1 Red Seals were printed in mid-1933, but the majority of them were not released
until the recession of 1949. They were then issued in Puerto Rico to reduce
"sorting" problems in the mainland Federal Reserve Banks. Many of
them never made it into circulation on the mainland United States.
Where are the statistics obtained when someone says "Only
10 known recorded, when referring to Large Size currency? L. Sidoti, Balwin,
This information is obtained from data recorded in the well-known
and universally accepted U.S. Paper Money Records, by Martin Gengerke. Specifically,
this is a Census of U.S. Large Size Type Notes. It is available in print version
and CD for IBM-compatible formats at a cost of $125.00 and can be ordered in
our E-Store or email us for details.
Mark W. ~ Looking
for Nationals from Saint Marys, Wilcox and Johnsonburg PA.
Josh G. ~ Intersested in all MA
Nationals. Immediate offers made.
Frank S. ~ Want high grade
1899 $1 Eagles. Please submitt scans or photos.
If you're looking for any particular notes, let us know and we'll gladly post
your want list here at no charge or obgligation. We'll screen all replies and
email the results to you. Reply to WANT LIST c/o
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