A Closer Look At Internet Auctions:

Internet auctions are fast becoming an international pastime as well as a major business venture worldwide. Much like a game of chess, there are casual players and there are masters. There are many serious and reputable dealers out there, but they are side by side with fly by night, part-timers with no overhead who are looking to make a fast buck on unsuspecting buyers any way they can. It's important to try to determine who you're buying from, and if you can seek restitution through any type of a guarantee in place if there is a problem down the road.

We've all seen those auctions where not only are the descriptions vague, but the whole auction looks like a 5 year old wrote it and misspelled half the words. Of course, there's no photo of the item or if there is, it's so dark that you can't even see the item clearly. And then there's the feedback showing that at least half the buyers had some problem or another with this seller (notice we didn't say that this individual is a Dealer).

Sure, an auction like the one just mentioned could be for some sort of "diamond in the rough", figuring that the seller isn't on the ball enough to know what they've got, but that's also like hoping that you'll win the $125 Million Dollar Power Ball Jackpot. What are the odds, really?? Yet all of us at one time or another are willing to take a chance on getting something for nothing, or at least cheaper. Always remember though, "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!"

Something that every buyer should do is to take a moment and enter the sellers "guidelines" area of any major auction site. Doing so will be quite an education in terms of how sellers are instructed to list items and for how much. This will answer many questions that are often asked by buyers about starting bids and reserves, etc.

The prospect of a "No Reserve" auction with a very low starting bid sounds enticing, but "Buyers Beware!". From the guy selling out of the trunk of his car using a borrowed lap top, to some of the biggest dealers around with over 1000 auctions running, there are many unscrupulous sellers out there using shills. These are "friends" or "alias" user I.D.'s who place bids just to get an item pumped up in price to a predetermined minimum selling range. Often times though, the shill won't even place a bid until within the last 5 minutes or so, which in that case is really merely a ploy to bail the seller out from having to sell the item at any type of loss. Of course, none of these tactics are legitimate, and the sellers can be banned from selling at a particular site if these accusations can be proven, but that's another story. Again, always remember that "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!"

Then there are the "Snipers", the bidders who jump around in the last few minutes of an auction and throw minimum bids on every auction they see with several bids already on them, hoping to steal a deal. After the auction closes and the smoke clears, the sniper determines whether or not the item is a good deal, in his opinion. If not, he simply defaults on payment, stops using that User I.D., and resurfaces with a new identity tomorrow. Not only does the legitimate buyer loose out in this case, but the seller as well, with all of his time spent sending out numerous notification emails, posting negative feedback and then having to take another 5 or 10 minutes to "remove" the buyer and finally re-list the item.

Speaking of time expended (and time is money to the legitimate dealers out there), the typical auction set up time, with preparing the actual listing, scanning or photographing the item, uploading the scans and finally proofing and making the submission can run anywhere between 10 and 15 minutes, depending on the time of day (due to Internet traffic). The administrative and shipping part of the ultimate sale can take another 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the bookkeeping and shipping systems used. Then there's the jaunt to the Post Office (because mailmen normally don't handle Insured Mail paperwork and package weights). Of course, UPS and FedEx pick up right at a sellers door, but some buyers find $15 to $20 in shipping costs per item a little tough to swallow. Remember, like in any well run business, things just don't get done on their own, good employees make it all happen, and they like to get paid too. So don't begrudge a seller for charging enough to get your item out the door and on it's way to you promptly.

Always remember that you're literally reaching into your pocket every time you place a bid. Don't over-extend yourself with a multitude of bids at one time. You could win all of the auctions you bid on, and then what? Ask yourself if spending the amount of money you've bid would cause you or your family financial hardship. If the answer is "Yes", then someone is going to suffer, and that's not good for any of us.  Sellers don't want to wait for you to amass the funds for payment, and the kids need food on the table every day. Always bid in moderation.

Some additional points to remember are:
 

• Always check the seller's feedback history before placing a bid.
• Use the automated bidding feature of the auction so as not to overpay for an item.
• Check to see if the seller has a guarantee policy (most reputable ones do!), but be realistic about this and don't abuse it "by trying everything on and not buying it!" If you receive your item and it's not what you bid on, that's the time to take advantage of the guarantee.
• Place a realistic initial bid. Don't worry, the automated bidding will only add a $1.00 (or the minimum bid), if that's all it takes to win the bid. If your realistic first bid doesn't reach the reserve of the item, you'll be told immediately and move on if you choose not to spend any more. If you really like an item and have already placed several bids, don't be afraid to send the seller an email inquiring about the reserve. If they see your bids in place, most sellers will reply directly to your email address if you provide it as a part of your question to give you an idea of their reserve. You see, if a question is asked and then answered at the auction site, it's posted for anyone who browses the auction to see. As long as the seller answers you via your email address that you leave by direct response to you, no one can see your email except the seller.
• Try your best to be an informed consumer. Research as much as you can about the item you are bidding on. Also remember that guide books and price sheets you refer to show broad ranged statistics with black and white interpretation. Nothing in this world is either black or white. Supply and demand often impacts prices, so if you really like an item and don't see a lot of them listed very often, don't be afraid to spend a little more than what the "book says". It's likely then too that the item could be worth a lot more than the book says.
• Confirm your winning notification from the seller, and mention your address at that point so that time frames can be anticipated. Alaska to Florida will take much longer than North Carolina to South Carolina for the payment to reach the seller.
• Send your payment when you say you will. A seller would much rather be told you need a few days to send the payment off, than to expect immediate payment and not get it. Good communication is the key to a smooth transaction.
• Make sure you know what forms of payment the seller accepts, don't assume (You know what "ass u me" does). You need actual cash to purchase most Money Orders. Remember that many banks today offer free Cashiers or Bank Counter Checks if you have a Plus or Gold Account with them. Personal checks can take up to 10 business days to clear completely. Using PayPal or a similar Credit Card acceptance program can often get your item shipped the same day.
• Send a copy of your winning email notification to identify your payment quickly to the seller. Some sellers receive over 50 checks a day and poor identification of your payment can delay your shipment.
• Always provide your typed or printed address the way it reads on an address label. Some sellers cut or scan your address and use what you provide as your actual shipping label to avoid transpositions and mistakes.
• Most reputable sellers will insist on shipping your item "Insured". Again, at quick look, this may seem somewhat unnecessary to the buyer, but there are several good reasons benefiting both parties to Insure the shipment. First, the seller has a specific record of exactly when and where the package was sent, if it ever becomes an issue. The buyer is protected in that if the item never reaches it's destination, there is a guarantee to get the buyers money back when a claim is filed. And finally, the buyer is protected from anyone else walking off with the item after delivery because the package must be signed for, simultaneously providing a record of delivery available for the sellers mutual benefit as well.
• Be prepared for your item to arrive in the condition it was in just as you saw it when you placed your bid. If something seems different, go back to the auction page and look at it again. If you feel that there is a problem for any reason, politely email the seller and state your concerns. Here again, if you're dealing with a seller who has a guarantee policy, there's normally no problem in reaching an amicable solution. The one case specific issue here for Currency purchases is grading. Grading is discretionary, and certainly in the eyes of the beholder. You would be surprised how many "experts" differ slightly in their opinion of borderline grades. One way to insure some confidence about  the seller you're dealing with is to go to the feedback again to see what other past customers have to say about the accuracy of the sellers grading practices. On the other hand, we all make mistakes, all of us! If you evaluate the situation you're facing and feel that there is an "issue", get it off your chest and tell the seller. Don't just huff off and post negative feedback, because, as "right as rain", there will end up being a "feedback war", and neither party benefits.
• Speaking of feedback, most legitimate sellers will take the time to post positive feedback about the transaction for you, and they really appreciate it if you do the same in return. An old expression comes to mind here though, "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all". In other words, let's say that everything went well in your transaction except for one little thing. If that one thing really bothers you though, don't leave any feedback, and believe me, the seller will get the message when he has asked for feedback and gets none.
• Finally, if all went well and you may sometime wish to purchase items from this seller again, either "Bookmark", add to "Favorites" the seller's  Auction page, or as in some auction systems, you can set "Alerts" so that when this seller lists new items, you'll be one of the first to know about them.

Now, with as much of the above in mind as you choose to take along with you, go out and have some FUN!!  finding that special something you're looking for and bid away. After all, isn't fun what auctions are all about??

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Maintaining Personal & Identity Security

In this high-tech, security conscious age we live in, it is surprising that some people are often unintentionally careless when it comes to maintaining confidentiality of highly sensitive personal information, which in turn can make them vulnerable, or at least, very possibly compromised.

For example, many individuals who collect currency, often wisely utilize a P.O. Box as a mailing address for security purposes, but then think nothing of sending a personal check for payment, which in turn has their home address printed on it, and very often also lists their home phone number and sometimes even their driver's license number or Social Security Number. Understandably, customs and practices from State to State are often different, requiring this information be on personal checks for convenience. But surely, some caution should be exercised in keeping this highly personal information as private as possible. Consideration should be given to using a separate checking account with minimal information for out-of-state and internet transactions.

At a time when many are attempting to be as statistically invasive and analytical as is possible about everyone, concern should be afforded in maintaining as much confidentiality as possible about providing personal information, and relating to any details of physical property accumulated for collecting purposes. Start by not divulging even your email address to anyone whose integrity you can't somehow check out or be comfortable with. In addition, completing a "survey" to qualify for something "free" may even end up costing you much more than your identity. "Information Pirates" and "Identity Thieves" as they are called, can learn a great deal about you by just one little shred of information innocently divulged. This information can then be sold over and over again to just about anyone.

As a Currency Collector, it is imperative that you consider your own security at all times. That is, first know something about the seller you are purchasing from. When in doubt, even before bidding at an auction, check the seller out via feedback, etc. and then ask questions if necessary to satisfy any curiosity. While using a credit card, be SURE that the link is secure through the entire payment process. If you accept delivery of and store your purchases at home, consider going out to purchase a vault for safe storage, or installing a security system to protect all of your valuables. Again, credit cards and money orders don't require relinquishing personal information outside a secure environment, so use this form of payment whenever possible to preclude any compromise of your confidential statistics.

Always insist on purchases being sent to you via Insured mail or transport. Also, if you don't already have an endorsement on your Homeowner's and/or Renter's insurance policy for stated value collectibles, check out the cost of that additional coverage as a wise investment. There are also some specific insurance carriers advertising in trade publications who write separate special policies on paper money collections. No matter what though, spend a few moments every month or so to maintain and update a current inventory of your collection, and keep it hidden elsewhere in your home or office, away from your actual collection, in the event of any unfortunate experiences.

By following these little steps, you ll have a much better chance of enjoying your collection for many years to come.

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Editors Desk

A Guide On Currency Grading:

Superb Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Superb Gem CU): A flawless note, visually perfect in every way. No folds, bends, rounded corners, or counting crinkles are permissible at this grade level, and the centering must be superior for the issue. The paper will be crisp and original, the embossing (where applicable) must be bold, and all four corners must also be perfectly sharp. The overall aesthetic quality at this grade level should be outstanding for the issue. Notes in this grade are rare, even in the most common series.

Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Gem CU): A crisp, perfectly centered example that has perhaps one tiny flaw that limits the grade-perhaps a microscopically frayed corner, or an almost imperceptible crinkle in the paper. The note must be absolutely original, with bold embossing and bright colors. Any flaw that is readily evident, such as a noticeable counting crinkle or slightly imperfect centering, will prevent a note from receiving a Gem CU grade. Notes in this and any Uncirculated grade will, of course, have absolutely no folds or bends.

Choice-Gem Crisp Uncirculated (or Choice-Gem CU): This is an intermediate grade that is reserved for notes that are nicer than a typical Choice CU note, but have one or more minor flaws that just barely prevent a Gem CU rating. Such a note might have perfect centering and otherwise flawless paper quality, but a minor counting crinkle would prevent a Gem grade. An otherwise flawless note with slightly imperfect centering might also fall into this category. Notes in this and any Uncirculated grade will, of course, have absolutely no folds or bends.

Choice Crisp Uncirculated (or Choice CU): A note in this grade will be a strictly Uncirculated note, with no folds or bends present even under close scrutiny. The paper quality and eye appeal will be above average for the issue, and any flaws present will be minor in nature. Imperfect centering is acceptable at this grade level, although any note with severe centering problems cannot attain this grade. A counting crinkle or two is acceptable, as well as a microscopically frayed corner or two. Any combination of these or other problems would drop a note into a lower category. A Choice CU note should be a pleasing, original example with no major distractions that are readily apparent.

Crisp Uncirculated (or CU): A note in this grade must be strictly Uncirculated-with no folds, bends, or wrinkles present, even when viewed very closely under a strong light. A bent corner tip may be acceptable at this grade level if there are no other flaws, but only if the bend is within the margin and it does not affect the design. If the bend is large or there is more than one, the note cannot grade CU. Such a note may have centering problems, counting crinkles, or microscopically rounded corners, but the note must be strictly free of folds or bends. A note that is otherwise Choice or Gem CU but has been processed or pressed might fall into this category.

Choice Almost Uncirculated (or Choice AU): A note in this grade will be a "just miss" for a Choice CU grade or higher. It will have above average eye appeal and will be attractive for the issue, but a bent corner or light vertical centerfold will keep it from an Uncirculated grade. Two light vertical bends are acceptable for this grade, as long as the surface of the paper is not "broken." More than one light fold or a heavy fold or crease will drop the note into a lower grade classification.

Almost Uncirculated (or AU): An AU note will have one or more light folds that are not heavy in nature or obtrusive to the overall appearance. Three light vertical bends would be acceptable for this grade if they do not "break" the surface of the paper, but no more than two light folds may be present. One heavy fold or crease may be present at this grade, but two heavy folds or creases will drop the note to a lower grade level.

Extremely Fine (or XF): A note in this grade will be bright, fresh, crisp, and attractive, but a few light folds or bends may be present. The overall eye appeal will be above average, and only the slightest soiling may be visible. A note in this grade might have a few light folds or several very minor bends, or a couple of vertical creases may be present. A note with a horizontal fold and three vertical folds cannot technically grade XF, although a very light horizontal bend that does not "break" the surface of the paper might be acceptable at this grade level if the three vertical folds are not heavy and there are no other apparent flaws. A typical XF note may have a couple of pinholes, but any larger holes would prevent a note from reaching this grade level.

Very Fine (or VF): A VF note should have nearly full remaining crispness, although several folds, wrinkles, or other signs of circulation may be present. Mild soiling might be apparent, but it should not be serious. No tears, stains, or other impairments should be readily apparent, and the note should still have nice eye appeal. Several minor pinholes may be visible when the note is held to a light. The corners may be slightly frayed or slightly rounded at this grade level, but the paper should retain nearly full crispness and there should be no loss of color in the design.

Fine (or F): A note in this grade will resemble most notes that have spent considerable time in circulation. The piece will have lost some of its crispness, but the paper will still be solid. (A limp note without any crispness will classify at a lower level.) The corners may be slightly frayed or rounded, and the edges may also be frayed. Pinholes may be readily apparent, but none should be large or obtrusive. A few minor edge splits are not uncommon in this grade, but they typically will be within the margin and not affect the design. No major stains or tears may be present, although a stray pencil marking or light teller stamp will not affect the grade at this level if it is not dark or obtrusive.

Very Good (or VG): At this grade classification, a note will be heavily worn with slightly rounded corners, frayed edges, or slightly rough margins. The paper will be intact, however, and no large pieces may be missing. A few edge splits may be apparent, although they must not be severe. The note will be limp or soiled from circulation, and some wallet staining may be visible. No major damage is acceptable at this grade level, however, and any note that has a large hole, stain, tear, or missing piece must fall into a lower grade category.

Good (or G): A note in this grade will be heavily worn, soiled, torn, taped, holed, or missing small pieces from the design. It will still be roughly intact, and readily distinguishable by series and design type. Damage or wear may be rather severe, but any note that is missing large portions of the design or is barely attributable may fall into an even lower grade classification, such as Fair or Poor.

A brief comment about intermediate grades:
Intermediate grades such as XF-AU, VF-XF, Fine-VF, VG-Fine, or Good-VG are often used to indicate a note that is nicer than the lower grade level, but just misses the higher classification. For example, a note with three vertical folds and a horizontal fold cannot technically grade XF, but it might be much nicer than a typical VF-an intermediate grade of VF-XF is then used in this instance. A plus sign (+) may also be occasionally affixed to a grade, indicating that the note is a nice, problem-free note for the assigned grade with claims to a higher classification.

Processed, washed, and pressed notes:
It is an unfortunate aspect of our hobby that unscrupulous people will attempt to pass some things off as something they are not. Methods to "improve" the look or grade of a note abound, and it is common to see notes where any number of these methods have been attempted. The most common is to wash the note (usually with soap, detergent, or bleach) and flatten it (often with an iron), and starch is even sometimes added to stiffen the note and add crispness. While a beginning collector may be easily fooled by such a note (and even experts occasionally miss one), enough practice will enable any collector to readily spot a "doctored" note. A few people in the hobby still maintain that a processed note is an "improved" note, but the portion of the hobby that views originality favorably has gradually overwhelmed this view, and processed notes are usually traded at a discount and graded at a level or two lower than their apparent grade. A processed note can usually be detected by fading or loss of color, especially where the note was once folded. Folds can often be difficult to detect, but the evidence of a fold can never be completely removed. Sometimes even the smell of a note is a dead giveaway-and sometimes it may be the only way to determine if a particularly good job was done in processing a note. On an Uncirculated note, a lack of original embossing is a telltale sign of a pressed note. Patience and attention to detail can often prevent hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of mistakes.

Damaged and repaired notes:
Some common sense is necessary when grading damaged or repaired notes. A collector should research the different methods of repairing a note, and be able to recognize these methods. Sometimes it is actually possible to "improve" the appearance of a note by repairing or restoring the paper (particularly when a tear is closed or a missing piece is restored), but the note still must be classified as damaged and repaired, and special care should be taken to make sure any note does not have a subtle or imperceptible repair. Some repairs are deceptive, and whether this deception is done intentionally or not a collector can get "burned" on such a note. The assigning of a grade to a damaged or repaired note is a matter of opinion in some sense, but common sense should dictate the final evaluation. A general rule to follow is to consider at what level one would be indifferent to a damaged note as opposed to a problem-free note in a lower grade. For example, if a collector would be equally content with a stained CU note or a problem-free VF, then a fair classification of the stained CU note might be at the VF grade level. It is best to give an overall grade to a note, and then describe the paper quality of the note and the flaws that are present. For example, a note may be graded VG, but in the description of the note it might state that it has the paper quality of a VF but a corner tip has been torn off.

Some general comments about grading and value:
Grading is, of course, an art, and not a science. While counting folds is relatively easy, determining eye appeal and what a note in a certain grade should "look" like takes time, experience, patience, practice, and a certain level of common sense. If a note looks really nice and might pass for AU but is technically only an XF or XF-AU, it will often bring a price commensurate with an AU grade regardless of the technical grade. Eye appeal is often more important than a technical grade in determining a note's value. This only makes sense-most people would rather own an attractive, problem-free, well centered AU note with a vertical fold down the center rather than a generally unattractive note that technically merits a CU grade. Approach grading with common sense and knowledge about what merits a given grade, and have fun-which is, after all, the most important aspect of collecting.

~END~

New U.S. Currency… Can You Spot a Fake?

In 1990 United States currency was enhanced with two new features. Although the appearance of the bills was the same, there was a security thread embedded that runs vertically through the note and through the micro printing around the border of the portrait.

Recently the look of U.S. currency changed again. With all the high tech copying tools available to the public, counterfeiting was becoming easier and easier. To counter act that the Treasury Department has come up with some high tech additions to its new bills! The bills were given enlarged portraits to make them easier to identify. There is also added detail that makes it harder to duplicate. You may have noticed that the portraits are off-center. This is intentional and provides room for a watermark over to the side that reduces wear and tear on the portrait. The watermark is based on what the portrait is on the bill (i.e. a $5 bill will have a portrait of Lincoln, and also a watermark of Lincoln close to the border.) The watermark is visible from both sides when you hold up the bill. There is a security thread embedded vertically in different locations that indicate the note's denomination. There are fine lines that are printed behind each portrait and they are very difficult to replicate. These new bills also have micro printing that is very small and hard to replicate because of its size. The micro printing is found in different areas on different denominations of bills. For instance, on the $5.00 bill the micro printing consists of the words "FIVE DOLLARS" in the side borders on the front of the note, while, "The United States of America" appears along the lower edge ornamentation of the portraits oval frame. On the $10 dollar bill the micro printing can be found on the front of the note - the word "TEN" being repeated in the numeral found in the lower left-hand corner. Also, the words "The Untied States of America" are repeated just above Hamilton's name along the lower edge of the portrait's frame. On most denominations there is what the treasury calls, "color-shifting ink." This ink is used on the green number in the lower right corner. On the front of the bill it appears black, when it is viewed at an angle. This is not a feature found on the $5 bill. On the back of the new bills there is a large denomination numeral that makes it easier to read. The bills all contain a universal seal that represents the entire Federal Reserve System. The letter and number beneath the left serial number identify the issuing Federal Reserve Bank. There are eleven numbers and letters that appear twice on the front of each note.

The redesigned $100 bill was the first note of the new series to enter into circulation. This bill has an updated portrait of Benjamin Franklin with an image of Independence Hall of the back. These bills went into circulation in 1996. The new $100 bills were followed in 1997 by the new $50 bills. They have an enlarged picture of Ulysses S. Grant on front and an image of the U.S. Capitol building on the back. 1998 saw the release of the redesigned $20 bill. Andrew Jackson's portrait is on the front and the north side of the White House replaces the view of the south lawn on the back of the note. In the middle of the year 2000 came the $10 bill with its portrait of Alexander Hamilton on the front and the Treasury Department on the back. Also, in mid 2000 came the new $5 note. Abraham Lincoln's picture is on the front and an updated illustration of the Lincoln Memorial is on the back.

In the year 2000 we also saw another major addition - the new dollar coin. This coin features a picture of Sacagawea, the Shoshone Indian woman who, with her infant son, guided Lewis and Clark to the west. There is an American eagle on the reverse side. This coin is gold in color and has a smooth edge. It does not replace the Susan B. Anthony dollar or the paper $1 bill. Those will still be in circulation.

A recap of some of the new features will be a key in spotting counterfeits. If you are suspicious, you want to check for the following items:

The color-shifting ink: With the exception of the new $5 bills you can tilt the bill back and forth to see the color on the number on the lower right corner. It should change from a distinct green to black, and back again.

The watermark: If you hold the bill up to a light source to see the watermark, look at the blank space to the right of the portrait. The watermark is actually in the paper and not printed on it, so it can also be seen from the reverse side. The security thread - look for the thin strip that runs from top to bottom. Surprisingly it is a strip of plastic that is actually imbedded, not printed on the paper. You can only see this when you hold the bill up to a light source. The security thread will glow a specific color, depending on the denomination, when held under an ultraviolet light.

The fine line printing patterns: When checking the fine lines behind the portrait on the front of the bill and behind the picture of the building on the back, take note that the lines are clear - not uneven or composed of dots. This needs to be done under a magnifier so you can see the finely printed words.

Some tips issued by the U.S. Treasury on what to do if you do suspect a counterfeit note:

Do not put yourself in danger

Do not return the note to the person who passed it to you.

Try to delay the passer by some excuse, if possible, without risking harm.

Try to observe and record the passer's appearance and that of any companions.

Note the license plate number and the make of the passer's car.

Call the police or the Secret Service.

Write your initials and the date on an unprinted portion of the suspect bill.

Do not handle the note more than necessary.

Put the note in a protective envelope.

Give the bill only to a properly identified police officer or a representative of the U.S.Secret Service.

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Questions & Answers

This is a forum where you can read important currency-related news, get in touch with other collectors to exchange information and stories in the currency community, voice your opinions, and most importantly, post want lists for certain rarities that you're looking for. Please contact us by email (Subject: WANT LIST) and we'll do our best to get everything posted promptly. Feel free to also make suggestions on how we can better serve your needs and improve this venue.

Market Updates:

Collectible currency is certainly a secure way to safeguard your investments for the future. The "currency market" continues to remain stable through all the other economic recessions today.

· Presently, all small size including Nationals are leading the market in popularity. Fractional Currency is following closely, relating to the trend of interest in our rich and intriguing U.S. heritage.

· We are pleased to advise that we have in stock a very large lot of the Uncirculated grade of Federal Reserve small size Notes. Many of them are sequential lots and are presently being inventoried for listing in the coming months. Some lots will be sold at a fixed price, while others will be listed for auction through our auction venues. Access to all lots will be possible from this site initially, so check back often. Anyone with specific Want Lists presented to us now will have first choice at any of the lots, so feel free to email us.

Readers Ask........

QUESTION: Why don't we see more 1928 $1 U.S. Red Seal notes available for collectors in my area? P. Sizemore, Aurora, IL

ANSWER: 1928 $1 Red Seals were printed in mid-1933, but the majority of them were not released until the recession of 1949. They were then issued in Puerto Rico to reduce "sorting" problems in the mainland Federal Reserve Banks. Many of them never made it into circulation on the mainland United States.

QUESTION: Where are the statistics obtained when someone says "Only 10 known recorded”, when referring to Large Size currency? L. Sidoti, Balwin, NY

ANSWER: This information is obtained from data recorded in the well-known and universally accepted U.S. Paper Money Records, by Martin Gengerke. Specifically, this is a Census of U.S. Large Size Type Notes. It is available in print version and CD for IBM-compatible formats at a cost of $125.00 and can be ordered in our E-Store or email us for details.

READERS WANT LISTS:

Mark W. ~ Looking for Nationals from Saint Marys, Wilcox and Johnsonburg PA.

Josh G. ~ Intersested in all MA Nationals. Immediate offers made.

Frank S. ~ Want high grade 1899 $1 Eagles. Please submitt scans or photos.

Looking For:

If you're looking for any particular notes, let us know and we'll gladly post your want list here at no charge or obgligation. We'll screen all replies and email the results to you. Reply to WANT LIST c/o

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PRINT THIS PAGE Last Updated: 05/09/2008